Gel nails have become the professional standard for long-lasting colour and a flawless finish. But what sets them apart from acrylic or traditional varnish? And why do some gel applications last weeks, while others peel within days?
This guide explains what gel nails are, how they work at a chemical level, and why proper technique is essential for achieving results that last.
What Are Gel Nails?
Gel nails are a system that uses light-reactive gel products cured under UV or LED lamps to form a hardened, high-shine coating. Typically applied in three layers: base, colour, and top coat, each one is cured to create a durable finish that resists chipping and lifting.
There are two main gel types:
• Soft gel (e.g. gel polish) – Offers colour and gloss over the natural nail.
• Hard gel – Can be used to sculpt nail length or reinforce strength.
Gel systems require careful preparation and precise curing, but in return, offer clients longevity, comfort, and aesthetic consistency.
How Gel Nails Work - The Chemistry Behind the Shine
At the heart of a gel manicure is a chemical reaction called photopolymerisation. Here’s how it works:
1. Application – The gel contains oligomers and photoinitiators.
2. Curing – Under UV or LED light, the photoinitiators activate, causing the oligomers to link together.
3. Hardening – The result is a cross-linked polymer structure that adheres to the nail, forming a strong yet flexible surface.
Each layer must be applied evenly and fully cured to avoid lifting, wrinkling, or undercuring, a leading cause of sensitivity and poor wear.
“We always tell our students that gel nails are only as strong as your prep and your lamp. You can’t rush the process — when you understand the chemistry, everything clicks. That’s the difference between short-term results and long-term client loyalty.”
– Charli Jepson, Head of Education at Glitterbels
Common Mistakes That Lead to Gel Nail Failure
Poor results usually come down to process, not product. The most frequent issues include:
• Skipping prep – Natural oils or residue prevent proper adhesion.
• Over-application – Thick layers don’t cure evenly, leading to heat spikes or wrinkling.
• Inadequate lamp power – Under-curing weakens the finished nail and increases allergy risk.
Training and consistency are key. With the right tools and education, gel nails can be one of the most reliable systems a tech offers.
Gel, Acrylic or Nail Polish? What’s Right for Your Clients?
Choosing between systems ultimately comes down to the type of service, client lifestyle, and visual goals. Below is a comparison of gel nails, acrylics, and the new Glitterbels Nail Polish range (perfect for those who want a salon finish without lamp curing).
|
Feature |
Gel Nails |
Acrylic Nails |
Nail Varnish |
|
Curing method |
UV/LED light |
Air-dried chemical reaction |
Air-dried |
|
Finish |
High-gloss, durable |
Structured, sculpted |
Glossy or satin |
|
Wear time |
2–3 weeks (with correct application) |
2–3 weeks |
4–7 days |
|
Flexibility |
Flexible, natural feel |
Rigid, hard-wearing |
Very flexible |
|
Removal method |
Soak-off (soft gel) or file-off (hard gel) |
File-off |
Acetone or nail polish/varnish remover |
|
Ideal for |
Long wear colour services, overlays |
Sculpting length and structure |
Quick-change looks |
|
Training needed |
Yes – to master lamp curing and prep |
Yes – for proper liquid/powder ratio and timing |
No |
|
Best for |
Clients who want a polish-style colour that lasts |
Nail enhancements, heavy-duty durability |
At-home or in-salon fast manicures |
|
Glitterbels range |
When to Use Nail Varnish Over Gel
While gel and acrylic offer long wear, nail varnish (or polish) remains a smart choice for express services or clients who want to change their colour frequently. Most obviously, and as we have said many times, acrylics and gel should only be applied by professionals. Varnish can be applied by everyone!
The new Glitterbels Nail Polish collection has been developed to deliver:
• Fast air-drying performance
• Rich pigmentation and smooth glide
• Shades that complement our gel system
• An ideal solution for natural nails and short services
It’s varnish, elevated. And it opens the door to a wider menu of options for both in-salon and mobile nail professionals (and non-professionals).
FAQs About Gel Nails
Q: What are gel nails made of?
A: They’re made from light-reactive polymers — specifically oligomers and monomers — that harden under UV or LED light.
Q: How long do gel nails last?
A: Typically 2–3 weeks, though this depends on the client’s aftercare and the quality of application, and of course, what people do with their nails!
Q: Are gel nails safe?
A: Yes — when applied properly and fully cured. Under-curing or overexposure to uncured gel can lead to sensitivity or allergies. For allergy-sensitive clients, Glitterbels offers a range of HEMA-free products, including gels and Builder Gel.
Q: Can you remove gel nails at home?
A: Soft gel (e.g. gel polish) can be soaked off with acetone and wraps. Hard gel usually requires professional filing to avoid nail plate damage. However, we would always recommend that gel nails be removed professionally.
Q: Is gel better than polish or acrylic?
A: Each system has strengths. Gel is flexible and long-lasting, acrylic is sculptable and tough, and varnish is ideal for quick, stylish changes.
To wrap up
When you understand how gel nails work — and how they stack up against acrylics or polish — it gives you real confidence at the nail desk. Whether you’re creating a two-week gel manicure, sculpting extensions, or painting quick polish for a client in a rush, it all comes down to two things: the products you trust and the technique you’ve trained in. That’s what keeps clients coming back.
Glitterbels is proud to support every style and every skill level, with products designed by educators, tested in training rooms, and trusted by working nail techs.