Hard Gel is super on trend for 2025 so we thought we’d deep dive into Hard Gel with our Head of Education, Charli Jepson to get the low down on what every nail tech needs to know about it for 2025, and beyond.
1. What is Hard Gel and how is it different from acrylic?
Hard gel is a UV- or LED-cured nail enhancement product known for its durability and flexibility. Unlike acrylics, which are air-cured and can be more rigid, hard gels offer a much lighter feel.
Charli’s Insight: “Hard gel’s flexibility makes it less prone to cracking under pressure, providing a more comfortable experience for clients.”
2. How do you apply hard gel correctly?
Proper application is key to getting a smooth, long-lasting hard gel finish. Follow these steps for the best results:
1. Prep: Clean the natural nail and gently buff the surface to remove shine. Ensure the nail plate is free from oils and debris.
2. Dehydrator: Apply a dehydrator to remove any remaining moisture from the nail plate.
3. Primer: Apply a thin layer of primer to help with adhesion and prevent lifting.
4. Base Coat: Apply a thin layer of base coat and cure under a UV or LED lamp for 60 seconds.
5. Application:
Bead 1 (Apex Area):
Place a small bead of hard gel just behind the apex (the highest point of the nail). Lightly guide it into shape using gentle, controlled strokes. Cure for 60 seconds.
Bead 2 (Cuticle Area):
Place a smaller bead near the cuticle, feathering it into the first bead. Be careful not to touch the skin. Cure for 60 seconds.
Bead 3 (Free Edge):
Apply the final bead at the free edge and blend it smoothly into the rest of the nail. Cure for 60 seconds.
6. Shaping and Buffing: Once cured, refine the shape with a file and gently buff the surface to remove any imperfections.
7. Top Coat: Apply a thin layer of top coat and cure for 60 seconds to seal the finish.
Charli’s Tip: “Working in smaller beads allows better control and helps avoid flooding the cuticle. Building the apex properly ensures the nail is strong but still has a natural finish.”
3. Can hard gel be soaked off?
No, hard gel cannot be soaked off with acetone. It requires careful filing to remove, which should be performed by a trained professional to avoid damage to the natural nail. It is not recommended for use at home and should only be applied by a trained, nail tech professional.
Charli said: “Always use a gentle filing technique and avoid over-filing to maintain the integrity of the natural nail.”
4. Why could a Hard Gel manicure keep lifting or peeling?
Common causes include:
• Improper Nail Preparation: Oils or debris left on the nail can hinder adhesion.
• Incorrect Application: Applying the gel too thickly or unevenly can lead to lifting.
• Inadequate Curing: Using an incompatible or underpowered lamp may result in incomplete curing. The Glitterbels DreamCure lamp is a state-of-the-art lamp suitable for a range of gels.
Charli’s thoughts: “Ensuring the nail is thoroughly cleansed and dehydrated before application is key to preventing lifting.”
5. How do you get chrome to stick to hard gel?
Chrome powders adhere best to a no-wipe top coat. After applying and curing the hard gel, apply a no-wipe top coat, cure it, and then rub the chrome powder onto the surface. Finish with another layer of top coat to seal the chrome effect.
Charli’s Tip: “Using a no-wipe top coat is essential for achieving a smooth and long-lasting chrome finish.”
6. Is hard gel better than soft gel or acrylic?
Each has its advantages:
• Hard Gel: Offers durability and flexibility, ideal for clients seeking a natural feel with added strength.
• Soft Gel: Easier to remove and suitable for clients who prefer a less rigid enhancement.
• Acrylic: Provides robust strength and is often chosen for more dramatic nail extensions.
Charli’s Perspective: “The choice depends on the client’s lifestyle and desired outcome. Hard gel is excellent for those needing durability with a lighter feel.”
7. Can you fill hard gel nails?
Yes, hard gel nails can be filled (or ‘infilled’). It’s essential to ensure there is no lifting or damage before proceeding with a fill. Proper preparation and blending of the existing gel with the new application are crucial for a seamless finish. As with most ‘professional only’ products fills should only be undertaken by a qualified nail tech.
Charli’s Advice: “Always assess the existing gel for any signs of lifting or damage before performing a fill to ensure the best results.”
8. What are the best nail shapes for hard gel?
Hard gel is versatile and supports various nail shapes, including:
• Almond
• Coffin
• Stiletto
• Square
Its strength and flexibility make it suitable for both natural and extended lengths.
Charli’s Insight: “Hard gel’s adaptability allows nail techs to experiment with different shapes without compromising durability.”
9. How long does hard gel last?
With proper application and care, hard gel nails can last between 3 to 4 weeks. Regular maintenance appointments are recommended to address nail growth and any potential lifting.
Charli’s Tip: “Scheduling regular fills every 3 weeks helps maintain the integrity and appearance of hard gel nails.”
10. Why is my hard gel yellowing or discolouring?
Possible reasons include:
• UV Exposure: Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause yellowing.
• Product Quality: Using non-professional or outdated products may lead to discolouration.
• Improper Curing: Under-curing can result in colour changes over time.